The day started with jet lag and an early breakfast. After this a quick twenty minute walk to the Old City of Jerusalem where we visited the Dome of the Rock. A beautiful Mosk resides there, above the old temple of Soloman. This is also where the Wailing Wall stands, it is here that hundreds of people gather to pray. For a very long time I had wanted to see and experience this place, however as we walked along the wooden ramp it seemed that access was not for tourists. Dissapointed we continued to explore the grounds, and eventually found ourselves in the old city where shopping and cafe’s lined the stone streets.
After lunch (a chicken giro and freshly pressed pomegranate juice) the group scattered to more personally interesting destinations. I found myself with a lovely woman named Candice – a native of Canada and mother of six. We decided to stay in the old city to look at the architecture, meet interesting people and shop a bit. I found a pair of handcrafted earrings that seemed to set my world right and I
guiltily realized that the endorphin rush soothed my disappointment
at not being able to get to the wall:) ahhhh…..the life and emotional
state of a shopper.
After returning to the hotel and meeting the rest of the group, two
of my friends and I went in search of an ATM. I was surprised to find that we ended up in the old city, my friends hadn’t experienced it yet and I discovered a rush of excitement at showing them where I had been during the day. The majority of the shops were closed, however many people still meandered. We passed by a leather shop that sold belts and purses and I noticed a young man sitting at a table hard at work sewing. I quickly pulled my friends in to look around. The man was 25 years old and about 6’4″ tall. He told us that his store had been passed down to him and that he had started working when he was 15 years old. He carried a humble sense of pried when he talked about the shop’s history. The items he was producing were of extremely good quality. I do believe I will return there and make a purchase!
After talking for a while and snapping some pictures, I remembered that there was an ATM by the Western Wall. We passed several more shops and declined a few offers of tea or coffee before arriving – only to find the ATM out of order. My friends noticed that there was no line at the entrance and after speaking with the guards they discovered that we were indeed allowed to enter!
This entrance was a large tunnel that smelled of mold and the earth, both welcome smells and in a strange way quite awakening to my senses. The tunnel ended and there I was! The wall off to the left, men’s side separated from the women’s by a metal divider. I wrote a few prayers for my loved ones, and approached feeling the whole while a deep sense of reverence. My friends and I stood in front of it watching women praying and after a short while I found a spot where I could stand up against it.
I have to say at this point that I am not one who follows any religious beliefs, I am a true earth baby and scientist to boot! However the feeling that took me was one of gentle warmth, I’m not quite sure how to put it into words, maybe it had something to do
with how many people were praying at once. I was moved. I sent up
my prayers and put the written ones in the cracks of the stones. I had a great sensation of joy, forget the earrings, this was what I had come here to do!
As we walked back up the Via Delarosa an insence shop keeper invited us to sample some smells and spices, these were, undeniably wonderful! (One in particular seemed like it would go well on popcorn:)
We also finally accepted an offer for tea in a cafe. The three of us sat for almost two hours talking about life and the trip ahead. Around midnight we called an end to the full, full day and headed back up the windy roads and hundreds of stairs. About halfway up we came across an old man leaning against the railing, breathing hard with groceries and giant water bottles strewn around his feet. We quickly offered our assistance and got him up to his home. Once there his wife and family insited on having us in for water, curiosity most certainly got the better of us so we stepped inside. An open stone courtyard led into a very small living space. Here we learned about a family of eight living in two rooms. The gentleman showed us family photos while his wife insisted on sharing her kitchen view. I can only imagine what it would be like washing dishes everyday with a perfect view of the citadel! This was most certainly one of the richest days I have ever experienced.
Later that morning as I fell into bed I reflected on the fact that our evening had held us with beautiful sights, exotic smells, delicious tastes, interesting textures and that we had experienced a heart aspect of the city – it’s wonderful people!
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